CHICO — Undaunted by spring rain and blustery-cold winds, Two English Ladies, Pat Holdstock and Claire Stephens, put aside their signature black and white toile aprons and donned heavy jackets for their stall at Saturday’s farmers market in downtown Chico. Holdstock and Stephens are relative newcomers to the Saturday market, but you may recognize them from last summer’s Thursday Night markets, or the Tuesday market in Paradise.
Two English Ladies make fresh citrus curds — a jam-like spread, out of local lemons, oranges, and limes, every week. Very much a family business, the mother-daughter team are using a recipe from a British cookbook that belonged to Holdstock’s mother, and the business started as a fundraiser for Holdstock’s granddaughter who was raising money for a mission trip to Mexico. As Maddie sold the fresh lemon curd to friends and neighbors for her trip, Holdstock was encouraged by many saying, “You really should do something with this.”
The original product, lemon curd, has been joined by orange curd, lime curd, and most recently Two English Ladies scone mix. There is nothing better than a warm, freshly baked scone with a spoon of lemon curd and a dollop of clotted cream, according to the ladies.
Holdstock and Stephens started the business in April 2010, and have been “bowled over by the response.” There’s a certain amount of education involved, introducing the taste of British curds to an American audience, but market-goers love the intense citrus flavors of the spreads, and having access to such a fresh product.
Two English Ladies’ curds are made fresh every week and held in refrigeration until they are purchased either at one of the markets, or online at www.2englishladies.com.
There are no preservatives; the curds are all natural and made from local products. Many of the lemons used for the lemon curd are gifts from friends and customers who have lemon trees and can’t use all the fruit.
It’s a busy time for the business. In addition to making the weekly supply of curds for the market, all the citrus fruit for next year’s curds must be bought, juiced, zested and frozen while it’s in season and at peak flavor. This is where Holdstock’s husband, Bob, becomes indispensable. Although the business is Holdstock and Stephens’, Bob is the star employee. He hand juices every fruit that goes into the curd recipes, does the heavy lifting and stand set-ups, runs the company’s Internet presence, and is an all-round marketing wizard and and aide-de-camp to the fledgling business.
Holdstock’s real profession is nursing, and you can find her at Dr. Incaudo’s office when she isn’t making or selling her curds. Elegant, sincere and unafraid of hard work, she is the ideal pastor’s wife, which was her role when the family moved from Brighton England to Auburn, Calif., and then to Virginia. After six years in Richmond, Va., the Holdstocks elected to settle in Chico to be near their daughter Claire and her family. Another daughter, JoAnne and her family live in North Wales.
The Holdstocks like the small-town feeling of Chico and the camaraderie and community of the markets, which each have a different personality. They like the diversity they find in Chico and are especially impressed with how cooperative and supportive people are: “They want you to succeed.”
In addition to their day jobs, their production day to make the curds, and their Saturday, Tuesday, and Thursday night market commitments, the ladies and Bob attend various faires and festivals around the north state and plan the future of their company.
An apple and cinnamon curd they are making now will probably become a seasonal offering and be available only in the fall; there are plans for a grapefruit curd as a seasonal product, and they are researching clotted cream, another British essential for scones and afternoon tea.
For now, Holdstock and Stephens are absolutely enjoying the business, and feel rejuvenated and excited when they get into the commercial kitchen and start the week’s batch. All the cooking is done exclusively by Holdstock and Stephens, who aren’t ready to delegate that most important job.
Holdstock’s favorite use for the curd is on toast, or on bagels with cream cheese; Bob likes it on salmon as well.
They are all watching the mail, waiting for their invitation to WIlliam and Kate’s wedding April 29. Stop by the Two English Ladies’ stall for a taste of the curds and Royal Wedding updates. If you don’t shop the markets, Two English Ladies curds and scone mixes are available at The Galley and Zucchini & Vine in Chico, and at Enjoy the Store on Placer Street in Redding.
Two English Ladies Traditional Scone Mix has a lovely texture and makes a classic English Tea Scone. Scones are essentially a kind of biscuit, and the mix is a great starting point for many savory or sweet scones that can be served warm out of the oven as an accompaniment to soup or dinner, or as a breakfast item.
Adding currants, raisins, chopped dried apricots, lemon or orange zest, cranberries, or chocolate chips results in a sweet or fancy scone. Adding grated cheddar cheese and dill, feta and green onions, sour cream, black pepper and chives, or grated parmesan and garlic creates a savory dinner scone, and adding black pepper, chopped bacon, grated cheddar and green onions makes a great breakfast scone. The mix lasts for about a year, and is a versatile addition to the pantry.
Lemon curd tarts are probably the most famous use for lemon curd after a spread for toast and scones. These two-inch tartlets by former Chez Panisse chef, Tasha DeSerio for Fine Cooking, December 2010, can be either savory or sweet and used as a canap? or sophisticated dessert.
Rosemary-Lemon Tarts with Pine Nut Shortbread
Recipe uses 2-inch tartlet molds, (you’ll need 25), which turn out elegant two-bite tarts. Makes about 50 2-inch tarts.
Lemon Curd
2 jars Two English Ladies lemon curd.
For each jar add 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest,
and 1 tablespoon very finely chopped rosemary.
Stir additional zest and rosemary into each jar, and refrigerate.
Garnish
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil.
1/4 cup pine nuts
Kosher salt
Shortbread dough
7 ounces (1 1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 oun ces (1/2 cup) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1/2 cup pine nuts, very finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 ounces (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
Nonstick cooking spray
Put the flour, confectioners’ sugar, pine nuts, and salt in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine.
Add the butter and continue to mix on low speed until the dough is smooth, about 1 minute. Divide the dough in thirds. Wrap each piece in plastic and press into flat disks. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Bake the Shells in two batches:
Spray 25 fluted tart shells with cooking spray. Working with one round of the shortbread dough at a time, roll the dough between two pieces of parchment paper to a 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 2 1/2-inch round cutter, cut the dough into 25 circles. Gather any scraps and refrigerate for re-rolling.
Using a metal spatula, transfer the rounds to the tartlet pans and press the dough into the pans. Trim the tart dough so that it’s flush with the edge of the pan by pressing along the rim of the pan with your thumb.
Prick each tart shell several times with a fork, arrange on a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Bake the tartlet shells until they are deep golden brown, 10-15 minutes. Transfer the shells to a rack to cool. Remove the shells from the pans and store in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 2 days.
Repeat rolling and cutting the remaining dough and scraps, which you can re-roll once, to yield 25 more circles. Bake, cool and store as above.
Make the garnish
Heat the oil in an 8-inch skillet over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the pine nuts. Toss the nuts until browned, 30 seconds, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Assemble the tartlets
Spoon the lemon curd into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip. Pipe the curd into the tartlet shells and top each with three pine nuts. The tartlets may be assembled up to four hours ahead.
Nancy Lindahl features the vast culinary choices that abound in our farmers markets and backyard gardens. Sweet Basil and the Bee runs the second and fourth Wednesdays. E-mail to zookeeny@gmail.com.
