Euphorbias are one of the most dramatic garden plants, and they happen to do well in our ongoing conditions of drought. The genus is expansive and includes 2,000 species of herbaceous perennials, annuals and biennials, as well as evergreen and deciduous shrubs. You might think you are unfamiliar with this plant family, but one tender (and colorful) variety of euphorbia is customarily purchased during the holiday season: the Poinsettia. The poinsettia’s red leaves surround a “flower” called a cyathium, which is really a structure that consists of fused bracts that form a cup around the (actual) tiny flowers.

Euphorbias originated in southwestern Asia, Europe, Australia and the Mediterranean. They are un-thirsty plants which prefer well-drained soil, and can be grown in either full sun or partial shade.

Euphorbias are not fussy about soil type either; they are tolerant of normal, clay, neutral or acidic soil. And they are easy to maintain: give them a little water to get established, but thereafter allow the soil to dry out between thorough waterings.

Euphorbia characias is perhaps the most commonly seen euphorbia in our area.

The upright stems of this Mediterranean native are crowded with narrow blue-green leaves that form a dome-shaped bush four feet high & wide. Chartreuse or lime green flowers in dense, round to cylindrical clusters appear in late winter and early spring.

Characias is very drought resistant and thrives in part to full sun.

There are many Euphorbia varieties, crosses, and sub-species. Below are a few interesting ones that do well in the north state.

Classified as an Evergreen Spurge, the sub-species “Tasmanian Tiger” grows three feet wide and high with bow-tie like flower bracts edged in white. The conical flower heads appear in spring. Prune spent flower heads and stems down to the base of the plant—new ones will form during the summer. This euphorbia provides interest all four seasons in our mild climate.

Euphorbia “Polychroma” is another showy variety that looks especially lovely alongside spring-blooming tulips and other bulbs. It is also known as cushion spurge. Its bright golden flowers sit atop cushion-shaped light green leaves. This versatile plant is useful in edgings, rock gardens and containers. And autumn brings an extra treat: red foliage color. Trim this plant back hard to four inches in early summer to maintain a bushy, compact size.

Euphorbia “Ascot Rainbow” matures at 20 inches wide by 20 inches high. The edges of its narrow, gray-green leaves are edged in yellow, and it has variegated cream, lime and green flower bracts. In cooler months, the foliage at the ends of stems can take on a rosy hue. This more compact plant is attractive in groupings.

If your garden is plagued by deer and rabbits, they will avoid euphorbias because the stems of these plants contain milky white sap that can be an irritant to the skin or toxic if ingested. For this reason, it is a good idea to handle euphorbias with gloves to avoid getting the sap on your skin or in your eyes. The sap has a latex base, so it is also good practice to clean your pruners after using them on euphorbias, to help maintain a sharp blade.

Euphorbias make unusually attractive cut flowers that can be incorporated in floral arrangements. To prevent the sap from bleeding, dip the stems in boiling water or seal the stems by holding a flame to them for a few seconds before adding them to an arrangement.

The Master Gardeners’ Spring Workshop Series has begun! There are still 13 workshops to come, on a variety of topics between now and May 22. For information about the workshops, and to register, go to Workshops – UC Master Gardeners of Butte County at https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg. All workshops are free, but registration is required.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension system, serving our community in a variety of ways, including 4-H, farm advisers, and nutrition and physical activity programs. To learn more about UCCE Butte County Master Gardeners, and for help with gardening in our area, visit https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg/. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the hotline at 552-5812 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.

Since most failure with bulbs can be traced back to problems during planting, give yourself time for proper planning and planting. Plant in November to early December in our mild climate urban areas (zones 8 and 9).

Bulbs must be planted at the correct depth, usually in a hole 3 times as deep as the size of the bulb. Fertilizing with a bulb booster (such as 4-12-8) or with organic bulb food is a good idea — place a few grains of the fertilizer in the bottom of the hole, cover with a fine layer of soil so the bulb does not come into direct contact with the material, and then add the bulb and fill the hole with soil.

“Which end of the bulb is up?” you might wonder — usually the pointy end is up, and the roots face downwards. But some bulbs are long and narrow, making it difficult to tell which end is the top. You can plant such a bulb on its side — growth will respond to gravity with shoots growing up and roots growing down.

After covering the bulbs with soil, water the planted area well. Moisture must be present 6 to 8 inches below the surface to encourage root growth. Finally, avoid walking on the bulbs and compacting the soil.

Most gardeners are familiar with daffodils, narcissus and grape hyacinths, which are all “no chill” bulbs. Here are some less familiar “no chill” bulbs for sunny areas in your garden:

• Alliums are ornamental cousins of onions that aren’t usually bothered by animals.
• Globular clusters of white, yellow, pink, red, blue or purple flowers are carried on stalks that rise above the foliage. They come in a variety of heights, as well as colors, and can blend into any garden.
• Crinum, a tall member of the amaryllis family, is topped with a circle of trumpet-shaped flowers, usually white, pink or a combination of both. Plant so the neck of the bulb is just above the soil and give it plenty of water while it is growing.
• Gloriosa Lily is a tuberous perennial with red and yellow lily-like flower heads. It can sprawl and scramble through other plants, climbing by means of tendrils at the ends of its leaves.

Plant 1 to 2 inches deep, and 10 to 15 inches apart, in rich soil.

Snowflake (leucojum) has dainty white drooping flowers similar to snowdrops (galanthus), but this bulb holds up better in the heat. It can also stand temperatures down to 20 degrees if planted in a protected area. There is also a fall blooming species.

Watsonia has tall spikes of tubular blossoms which come in shades of red, orange, pink and white. They begin blooming in late winter and carry on into the spring.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension system, serving our community in a variety of ways, including 4-H, farm advisers, and nutrition and physical activity programs. To learn more about UCCE Butte County Master Gardeners, and for help with gardening in our area, visit https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg/. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the hotline at 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.

Consider growing bulbs that are better suited to our warm climate. They are easier to grow, most are perennial, and they look their best in warm temperatures.

Since most failure with bulbs can be traced back to problems during planting, give yourself time for proper planning and planting. Plant in November to early December in our mild climate (zones 8 and 9).

Bulbs must be planted at the correct depth, usually in a hole three times as deep as the size of the bulb. Fertilizing with a bulb booster (such as 4-12-8) or with organic bulb food is a good idea: place a few grains of the fertilizer in the bottom of the hole, cover with a fine layer of soil so the bulb does not come into direct contact with the material, and then add the bulb and fill the hole with soil.

“Which end of the bulb is up?” you might wonder: Usually the pointy end is up, and the roots face downwards. But some bulbs are long and narrow, making it difficult to tell which end is the top. You can plant such a bulb on its side; growth will respond to gravity with shoots growing up and roots growing down.

After covering the bulbs with soil, water the planted area well. Moisture must be present 6 to 8 inches below the surface to encourage root growth.

Finally, avoid walking on the bulbs and compacting the soil.

Most gardeners are familiar with daffodils, narcissus and grape hyacinths, which are all “no chill” bulbs. Here are some less familiar “no chill” bulbs for sunny areas in your garden:

Alliums: Ornamental cousins of onions that aren’t usually bothered by animals. Globular clusters of white, yellow, pink, red, blue or purple flowers are carried on stalks that rise above the foliage. They come in a variety heights, as well as colors, and can blend into any garden.

Crinum: A tall member of the amaryllis family topped with a circle of trumpet-shaped flowers, usually white, pink or a combination of both. Plant so the neck of the bulb is just above the soil and give it plenty of water while it is growing.

Gloriosa lily: A tuberous perennial with red and yellow lily-like flower heads. It can sprawl and scramble through other plants, climbing by means of tendrils at the ends of its leaves. Plant 1 to 2 inches deep, and 10 to 15 inches apart, in rich soil.

Snowflake (leucojum): It has dainty white drooping flowers similar to snowdrops (galanthus), but this bulb holds up better in the heat. It can also stand temperatures down to 20 degrees if planted in a protected area. There is also a fall-blooming species.

Watsonia: Produces tall spikes of tubular blossoms which come in shades of red, orange, pink and white. They begin blooming in late winter and carry on into the spring.

Bearded iris plants need to be thinned or divided every three to five years. A single rhizome sprouts new rhizome offshoots many times over the years, developing into a heavy crisscross clump, often choked with old leafless rhizomes.

Eventually the mass of leaves will exclude sun and air from the roots. This will lead to poor flowering and often weakens the plants, making them more susceptible to insects and diseases.

It is best to divide iris in July or August. Clumps may be thinned by removing the old divisions at the center of the clump, leaving new growth in the ground.

Better yet, dig up the entire clump with a garden fork and lift it from the soil. Separate the rhizomes with a knife or by gently pulling them apart.

Retain the younger, healthiest 3-to-4-inch-long rhizomes containing five leaves. Discard the plants that have a bloom stalk as well as those that are leafless, soft or old.

With a sharp stream of water from a garden hose, remove all soil from the roots and rhizomes. Trim roots to about 3 inches and trim the leaf fans to 6 inches to prevent them from tipping over when you replant them. Let them dry before replanting.

Iris are greedy plants and prefer to be placed in virgin soil, but you can fool them by amending the soil with well-composted planting mix.

Rhizomes should be placed 18 to 24 inches apart. For each one, dig a hole, place a mound of soil in the center of the hole, then place the rhizome on the mound and spread its roots downward. Cover with 1 inch of soil. Don’t plant them too deep!

Plant additional leaf fans in the planting bed facing the same direction. This way the rhizomes will all grow in the same direction and there will be less crowding.

Newly-set plants need moisture to help their root systems become established. Water weekly if the weather is dry.

Iris will bloom sparsely the first year after planting but will bloom well in the second and third years.

You might think you are unfamiliar with this plant family, but one tender (and colorful) variety of euphorbia is customarily purchased during the holiday season: the Poinsettia. The Pointsettia’s red leaves surround a “flower” called a cyathium, which is really a structure that consists of fused bracts that form a cup around the (actual) tiny flowers.

Euphorbias originated in southwestern Asia, Europe, Australia and the Mediterranean. They are un-thirsty plants which prefer well-drained soil, and can be grown in either full sun or partial shade.

Euphorbias are not fussy about soil type either; they are tolerant of normal, clay, neutral or acidic soil. And they are easy to maintain: give them a little water to get it established, but thereafter allow the soil to dry out between thorough waterings.

Classified as an Evergreen Spurge, “Tasmanian Tiger” grows 3 feet wide and high with bow-tie like flower bracts edged in white. The conical flower heads appear in spring. Prune spent flower heads and stems down to the base of the plant—new ones will form during the summer. This euphorbia provides interest all four seasons in our mild

Euphorbia “Polychroma” is another showy variety that looks especially lovely alongside spring-blooming tulips and other bulbs. It is also known as cushion spurge. Its bright golden flowers sit atop cushion-shaped light green leaves. This versatile plant is useful in edgings, rock gardens and containers. And autumn brings an extra treat: red foliage color. Trim this plant back hard to 4 inches in early summer to maintain a bushy, compact size.

Euphorbia “Ascot Rainbow” matures at 20 inches wide by 20 inches high. The edges of its narrow, gray-green leaves are edged in yellow, and it has variegated cream, lime and green flower bracts. In cooler months, the foliage at the ends of stems can take on a rosy hue. This more compact plant is attractive in groupings.

If your garden is plagued by deer and rabbits, they will avoid euphorbias because the stems of these plants contain milky white sap that can be an irritant to the skin or toxic if ingested. It is a good idea to handle euphorbias with gloves to avoid getting the sap on your skin or in your eyes.

The sap has a latex base, so it is also good practice to clean your pruners after using them on euphorbias, to help maintain a sharp blade.

Euphorbias make unusually attractive cut flowers that can be incorporated in floral arrangements. To prevent the sap from bleeding, dip the stems in boiling water or seal the stems by holding a flame to them for a few seconds before adding them to an arrangement.

Azaleas are the easy-to-care-for stars of semi-shaded locations. The most common varieties are evergreen azaleas, which are more accurately described as having “persistent leaves.” They grow a set of spring leaves that are dropped in the fall, and a set of summer leaves that persist through the winter.

Often referred to as “the royalty of the garden,” azalea colors are amazing, and some cultivars bear flowers so large that they completely obscure their leaves.

Flower colors range from subdued to garish, from white and cream through pink and coral, to shocking pink, peach, purple and red.

Some hybridizers have departed from solid colors and have developed margins, contrasting blotches or shading, and even striping.

Bloom sizes vary from diminutive to large double blooms. Some varieties have variegated leaves. Plants vary in size from miniature to giants as high as a house.

Read plant labels to choose an azalea that at maturity will still fit into its allotted space.

Azaleas are long-lived and can be used as permanent plantings, so consider the following factors before planting them in your yard.

Exposure: Azaleas prefer cool, partially-shaded sites, such as under pine, oak or maple trees.

Soil: They grow best in well-drained, organic soil that is acidic (4.5 ? 6.0 pH). Before planting, it is a good idea to check the ground with a soil tester. If the planting area is poorly drained, incorporate as much as 50 percent organic matter, such as composted pine bark, peat moss or rotted leaves.

Mulch: A two- to three- inch layer of organic mulch (leaves, pine bark, wood chips) will conserve moisture and help discourage weeds. Extend the mulch a couple of inches from the main stem to keep the bark dry.

Watering: Azaleas are shallow-rooted. If possible, use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to slowly water the base of the plants. Overhead irrigation may promote disease.

Fertilizing: If planted properly, supplemental feeding is unnecessary.

Pruning: The best time to prune is in early spring, just after the plant has finished blooming.

You may already have azaleas and are disappointed that they no longer bloom. You may need to give them more sun, perhaps by opening up the branches of the overhead trees, as well as pruning the azaleas to increase next year’s buds.

Reasons for stingy flowering or lack of blooms include:

1. The azaleas were allowed to dry out or to have wet feet. A two- to- three-inch-deep layer of mulch can help with water retention. Check the irrigation to make sure they are not being over-watered.

2. Fertilizing with too much nitrogen may interfere with blooming. Did the plants receive fertilizer while you were feeding the grass?

3. If you pruned after the flower buds developed, next year’s flowers were inadvertently removed. Prune shortly after this year’s flowers fade.

4. Less than three hours of sun per day reduces the number of buds. Prune overhead trees, or consider moving the plant and its root ball to a better location.

During the reign of King Edward I of England, he kept half a dozen serfs working to grow his favorite vegetable — green peas. A prize was rewarded to the serf with the greenest thumb, no doubt stained from hours and hours of shelling peas.

Another possibility is the fact that repeatedly handling clay pots encrusted with algae will cause a green stain on a gardener’s thumb as well as his fingers.

Other sources report that green thumbs were acquired by tobacco farmers when the flower was removed from the crops in order to increase the size and weight of each leaf.

This procedure was known as “topping” and is still practiced today. In colonial America, when tobacco was the major cash crop, farmers would hand-pick the flowers using their thumbnails to cut the stem. After a while, the thumb would be stained green.

It is easy to impulsively choose plants at a nursery based on color, attractiveness and health of the plant. The Green Thumb gardener considers additional factors, i.e. will my choice of plant be a companion to my existing garden; does it have similar water, light, drainage and growing zone?

Companion perennials

As a specialty grower of bearded iris, the question regarding suitable companion plants has been asked.

Oriental poppies and herbaceous peonies, like iris, are drought-tolerant with low maintenance.

All flourish in full sun and well-drained soil. The flowering season can be extended by choosing reblooming iris as well as miniature, dwarf and border bearded iris.

The foliage of iris will hide bare spots as the foliage of poppies withers. An added benefit is all three plants are deer- resistant.

Both oriental poppies and peonies may grow to up to four feet high and feature an oval habit form. The leaves of both feature finger-like foliage.

Poppies bloom in a variety of colors: orange, red, pink or purple.

Peonies are suited to the back of the border and bear large blossoms in white, pink, coral, red and sometimes yellow.

Summer blooming favorites

Russell lupine, another perennial, can also accent the planting mix and can usher in the summer bloom season. Other favorite companion flowers can include purple coneflower, alliums, black eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), Gaillardia, penstemon and tall border phlox.

Mixed Plants for Continuous Bloom

The Green Thumb gardener will arrange groups of plants to provide a sequence of bloom. The guiding phrase “right plant, right place” suggests careful observation to sun, shade, dry or damp soil and bloom season.

Carefully read labels on plants and determine the plant’s location. Invest in perennials and bulbs for a long- lived garden. Follow these suggestions and you too will have bragging rights about your own green thumb.

Carolyn Melf is a passionate gardener, a former president of Paradise Garden Club, a Master Gardener, and a member of Butte Rose Society. Living in deer country requires lots of trial and error. For more than 35 years,?Melf has been?acquiring deer-resistant plants. Her tried-and-true favorites are iris and peonies, which are the main plants?at Iris Spring, her hobby nursery. Fellow gardeners are invited to visit the two-acre garden in bloom season, usually mid- April?to mid May. Check her website, irispring.com.

Painful scratches and thorn pricks are one reason it’s prudent to get a tetanus shot every 10 years. Be sure to promptly clean scratches and pricks, too, because if untended they can become infected.

While pruning your roses this winter, you might notice the varying amounts of thorns on your plants. Some roses are very thorny, while others are nearly smooth or thorn-free.

Some varieties that are not totally thornless have thorns widely spaced, lessening the chance of being snagged. Other varieties have a few thorns on the lower half of the plant. In the case of Old Garden Roses (also known as heritage or antique roses), thorns may be located on the bottom of the leaves.

Thornless and nearly thorn-free roses are particularly appropriate for elderly gardeners, young children and individuals who may be susceptible to injury due to an impaired lymphatic system. Smoothly-caned roses also make pruning and training of both bush and climbing rose varieties easier. And they are a good choice for attractive, non-threatening walkways and arbors.

Luckily, January is also a great time to plant new bare-root roses. Several online companies recognize the need for thornless roses and include that information in their plant descriptions; some even have a special category for thornless roses.

Here are eight recommended varieties. Given ideal conditions, many of these are repeat bloomers, providing flowers throughout the growing season.

* R. Banksiae lutea (Lady Banks) Species, small light yellow double flowers, 20 feet high, deer-resistant. Tolerates poor soil.

* Nastorana, Noisette semi-white tinged pink double flowers, repeats, honeysuckle fragrance, 4 feet tall, 10 feet wide.

* Heritage, shrub, double flowered David Austin, lemon scent, small 7-foot climber, disease-resistant.

* James Galway. Shrub or climber, David Austin, old rose fragrance with almost thornless growth. Warm pink center, shading to pink at the edges. Reported to be shade-tolerant.

* Paul Neyron, Hybrid perpetual, medium pink, nearly thornless, 50 petals, long-lasting 7-inch blooms, reported to have continuous flowering. This is the one you think of as Grandma’s cabbage rose type.

* Zephirine Droughin, Bourbon, high centered medium pink, 25-30 petals, repeats, 8-12 feet, overwhelming fragrance. But it can suffer from rust, black spot and mildew.

* Reine des Violettes, hybrid perpetual, fragrant flat mauve petals. Blooms in early spring. Has a 5-foot square shape.

Traditionally the bulbs are placed in containers filled either with soil or with gravel, rocks or marbles and water. In only 4-5 weeks, they will begin to bloom.

However, a major problem with paperwhites is their tendency to develop long, lanky stems and leaves that require support. But there is a solution to this problem.

Researchers at Cornell University have discovered how to reduce the growth of the leaves and stems by one-third, while still producing normal-sized flowers, simply by watering with isospropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Steps to stunt paperwhites with rubbing alcohol

1. Place the bulbs, pointed side up, in about 3 inches of pebbles. Push the bulbs down, leaving half of each bulb exposed. Add water to barely touch the bottom of the bulbs, and wait one week.

2. When shoots reach 1″-2″ above the top of the bulb, pour off the water.

3. Replace the water with a 5 percent solution (one part rubbing alcohol to 10 parts of water).

4. Continue to use the alcohol solution for all future watering. You will see results in just a few days.

Let there be light

Light is a key factor in unleashing the fragrance of paperwhites. Initially place the container in a cool, dark place for about a week.

Gradually move the planted container into increasing amounts of light, finally landing it in the sunniest spot, though away from direct sunlight. This will lengthen the bloom period of your paperwhites.

If you plant bulbs successively, spaced two weeks apart, you can have paperwhites blooming in your house through March. The bad news is that they will not rebloom indoors after they are forced, as their energy has been depleted. But you can try planting them outdoors after they have bloomed inside.

Because it may take two years for them to bloom again after replanting, and sometimes they never bloom again at all, many experts recommend simply throwing out the bulbs after forcing them indoors.

Do you have a question for the Butte County Master Gardeners? Call our hotline at 538-7201.

Since most failure with bulbs can be traced back to problems during planting, give yourself time for proper planning and planting. Plant in November to early December in our mild climate urban areas (zones 8 and 9). Bulbs must be planted at the correct depth, usually in a hole 3 times as deep as the size of the bulb. Fertilizing with a bulb booster (such as 4-12-8) or with organic bulb food is a good idea: place a few grains of the fertilizer in the bottom of the hole, cover with a fine layer of soil so the bulb does not come into direct contact with the material, and then add the bulb and fill the hole with soil. “Which end of the bulb is up?” you might wonder — usually the pointy end is up, and the roots face downward. But some bulbs are long and narrow, making it difficult to tell which end is the top. You can plant such a bulb on its side — growth will respond to gravity with shoots growing up and roots growing down. After covering the bulbs with soil, water the planted area well. Moisture must be present 6 to 8 inches below the surface to encourage root growth. Finally, avoid walking on the bulbs and compacting the soil.

Most gardeners are familiar with daffodils, narcissus and grape hyacinths, which are all “no chill” bulbs. Here are some less familiar “no chill” bulbs for sunny areas in your garden:

Alliums are ornamental cousins of onions that aren’t usually bothered by animals. Globular clusters of white, yellow, pink, red, blue or purple flowers are carried on stalks that rise above the foliage. They come in a variety heights, as well as colors, and can blend into any garden.

Crinum, a tall member of the amaryllis family, is topped with a circle of trumpet-shaped flowers, usually white, pink or a combination of both. Plant so the neck of the bulb is just above the soil and give it plenty of water while it is growing.

Gloriosa Lily is a tuberous perennial with red and yellow lily-like flower heads. It can sprawl and scramble through other plants, climbing by means of tendrils at the ends of its leaves. Plant 1 to 2 inches deep, and 10 to 15 inches apart, in rich soil.

Snowflake (leucojum) has dainty white drooping flowers similar to snowdrops (galanthus), but this bulb holds up better in the heat. It can also stand temperatures down to 20 degrees if planted in a protected area. There is also a fall blooming species.

Watsonia has tall spikes of tubular blossoms which come in shades of red, orange, pink and white. They begin blooming in late winter and carry on into the spring.