As we celebrate the journey of migrating geese, attracted to the flooded fields left bare after rice harvest, let’s take a moment to celebrate rice. My husband is a rice farmer and although I’m proud of his farming skills, I’m most proud that he is growing something so vital. Rice is the staple grain for an estimated three billion people. It is biryani and pho, jollof and jambalaya — a source of tradition, and sustenance. Rice is the world’s most important food crop.
It is a primary source of calories for more than half of the global population, according to a NewAmercia.org Jan 11, 2024 article. More accessible than wheat that must be ground into flour, then baked, rice has only to be “milled” — the outer husk removed, before it is cooked and eaten.
I’m also proud of the mitigation efforts California’s rice farmers use in their handling of water, chemicals, and air quality. Like any large-scale farming, rice is not perfect. But they are always looking for ways to improve. Rice straw is now incorporated into the ground rather than burned; water is held in fields until any toxins from chemicals have abated, and later used to provide sustenance and a place to rest for migratory wild birds. Some farmers, the Lundbergs for example. send schoolchildren into the fields to search for bird’s nests and eggs which are picked up before the land is tilled for planting. The eggs are carefully placed in incubators until they hatch, then cared for until the birds are old enough to safely return to the wild.
The Snow Goose Festival of the Pacific Flyway starts tomorrow, one of the major birding and wildlife events in the state. It’s headquartered at the Patrick Ranch Museum and walk-in registration is still available for many events, Thursday through Sunday. There are workshops, field trips, a banquet and silent auction Saturday night, an art exhibit and reception at the Museum of Northern Califronia Art on Friday night and activities families can share all weekend. If nothing else, go to the Llana Seco viewing platform some afternoon after the festival is over and see the breathtaking flight and landing of a billion migrating birds for yourself.
After a busy and cold day of bird-watching it’s nice to come home to something warm and tasty and rice-oriented. Like this easy oven risotto with crispy roasted mushrooms by Anna Stockwell for Epicurious. A risotto without all the stirring — just pop it in the oven. And while that oven is on, use it to crisp up a bunch of mushrooms.
Oven risotto with crispy roasted mushrooms
Recipe serves four.
Ingredients:
• 1 pound mixed wild, shiitake, and/or crimini mushrooms, broken into pieces or sliced 1/4-inch thick (about 4 cups)
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled, thinly sliced
• 6 thyme sprigs
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1 3/4 teaspoons (or more) kosher salt, divided
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 cup arborio rice
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup dry vermouth or white wine
• 3 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth, divided
• 2 ounces finely grated Parmesan (about 1 cup)
• 2 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
• Lemon wedges (for serving)
Directions: Place racks in bottom third and middle of oven; preheat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Toss mushrooms, garlic, thyme, red pepper flakes, 1/4 cup oil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast on bottom rack, tossing halfway through, until deeply golden brown and crisped, 25-30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened and slightly translucent, 3-5 minutes. Stir in rice; season with pepper and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until some grains are translucent, about 2 minutes. Add vermouth, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until pan is almost dry, about 2 minutes. Add 2 1/2 cups stock. Bring to a simmer, then cover and bake in oven until liquid is mostly absorbed but rice is still slightly firm in the center, 16-18 minutes.
Return pot to stove and heat over medium. Add remaining 1/2 cup stock and cook, stirring constantly, until rice is tender but still has some bite and sauce is creamy, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in Parmesan, butter, and lemon zest; season to taste with salt, if needed. Add a little bit of warm water, if needed, until risotto is thick but still pourable.
Transfer risotto to a platter. Top with crispy mushrooms and parsley. Drizzle with oil. Serve with lemon wedges alongside.
Chicken purloo, sometimes called perlu, purlieu or pilaf is a one-pot savory rice and chicken stew associated with Lowcountry Gullah cuisine around Charleston and Savannah. More a concept than a strict recipe, t’s thought to have West African roots and is related to similar dishes around the world like Spanish paella, South African pulao, Turkish pilav, Greek pilafi and Indian biryani. In the American South, it’s a classic comfort food and there are as many ways to prepare it as there are to spell it. Using long grain or medium grain rice is important so that the cooked grains remain separate and fluffy as opposed to rice varieties used for creamy risotto or clumping sushi, according to Southern Living. It’s flavorful and warming — enjoy.
Chicken perloo
Recipe by Kardea Brown for Food Network serves six.
Ingredients:
• 5 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 pound skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
• 2 teaspoons House Seasoning, plus more if desired, recipe follows
• 8 ounces smoked sausage, such as kielbasa or andouille, cut into half moons
• 1 stalk celery, diced
• 1 medium Vidalia onion, diced
• 1 green bell pepper, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup dry sherry or dry white wine
• 3 cups diced ripe tomatoes (beefsteak or heirloom if ripe, plum if not), optional
• 2 cups uncooked long-grain or medium grain white rice
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 5 cups chicken stock
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for serving
House Seasoning ingredients:
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
Stir all spices together in a medium bowl. Keep in an airtight container. Makes 5 teaspoons.
Directions: Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and the fat is rendered, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the rendered fat in the pan.
Sprinkle both sides of the chicken with the House Seasoning. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the chicken thighs, skin-side down, and the sausage to the skillet. Sear the chicken on one side, stirring and flipping the sausage occasionally, until the chicken is deep golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes on the other side. Remove the chicken and sausage to the plate with the bacon.
Add the celery, onions and peppers to the remaining bacon and chicken fat. Cook until the vegetables are softened and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour in the sherry or wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape the browned bits from the bottom. Stir in the tomatoes, if using, and let cook until they release all their juices, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the rice and butter and cook for about 1 minute. Stir the cooked bacon and sausage back into the skillet. Stir in the chicken stock and check for seasoning. Nestle the chicken thighs, skin-side up, back into the pan, adding any juices from the plate.
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is fully cooked, 20 to 30 minutes. Fluff the rice and sprinkle with parsley if desired. Serve immediately.
I chose not to use tomatoes – The Perloo I’ve had in the past didn’t have them and we eat so many other things with tomatoes I thought it would be a nice break. A smoky sausage adds flavor and dry white wine is a perfect substitute if you don’t have sherry.
January! A great month for migrating snow geese, cozy rice dishes and muddy paw prints. Enjoy.
